专访 | 大董新书《一日一菜》创作背后的故事

来源：《环球美味》

大董，现代中餐的标志性人物。他的烤鸭餐厅也以“大董”命名，在北京和上海的分店已经获得米其林和黑珍珠荣誉。作为一名卓越的大厨和餐厅经营者，大董获得多项荣誉，受到了世界各地名厨的认可，包括 Daniel Boulud, Ferran Adria, Alain Ducas、Juan Mari Arzak、Umberto Bombana、Carlo Petrini、Mario Sandoval等等。大董餐厅更是受到外国友人的青睐，不少来自东南亚、欧洲、非洲、美洲等地的国家元首和政要来到中国，都会来大董餐厅“打卡”。

作为北京烤鸭的“官方代言人”，大董同时还被授予“阿尔巴白松露世界大使”的称号，更获得由意大利总统颁发的“Knight of the Order of the Star of Italy”。作为中国意境菜的创始人，大董在美食与中国传统诗词的融合上造诣匪浅，并创办了大董美食学院。多年来，大董将他对美食的热爱扩展到艺术、诗歌、文学、历史。他对摄影也研究颇深，并与澳大利亚“名人堂”摄影师Geoff Lung一起有深入的合作，带来充满创意的视觉艺术。

西方美学家说：“有一千个观众，就有一千个哈姆雷特”。因为文化、民族、个性的差异，每个人对于“美”的理解各不相同，但是大董通过他对美食、文学、摄影的理解和诠释，让中餐文化之美跨越边界，直达人心。

在这里，大董与"环球美味"分享了他对于新作《一日一菜》的创作心得与感想，双语典藏版将于近期发行。

DaDong, a name bigger than life, is also a legacy in modern Chinese cuisine. His roast duck restaurant, christened after his name, DaDong, had virtually morphed into an empire overnight, shimmering with Michelin stars and Black Pearl diamonds, among his branches in Beijing and Shanghai. As chef-entrepreneur par excellence, he has a blazing trail of accolades in China and across the world, and is highly respected by world luminary chefs in the likes of Daniel Boulud, Ferran Adria, Alain Ducas, Juan Mari Arzak, Umberto Bombana, Carlo Petrini, and Mario Sandoval to name but a few. Moreover, diplomats, including heads of states from Southeast Asia, Europe, Africa, and the Americas make their way to his table upon official visitations in Beijing and Shanghai.

Being the official Spokesman of the iconic Roast Duck; DaDong is also bestowed with the title of International Ambassador of Alba White Truffles; awarded the presidential Knight of the Order of the Star of Italy; recognized as the Creator of Chinese Yijing Cuisine, or food poetry and art; and Founder of DaDong School of Cuisines. Over the years, DaDong has channeled his passion beyond food onto the realm of art, more specifically poetry, inspired by Chinese literary laureates throughout history, and photography, inspired by Sydney Hall of Fame Food Photographer, Geoff Lung, with whom he takes delight working together in visualizing his culinary creations.

While it is said that "Beauty is in the Eye of the beholder", DaDong's works of art, be it culinary, poetry, or photography, transcend racial and cultural differences, allowing the beholders to become ONE in the joy and appreciation of beauty without borders.

Global Gourmet takes great pleasure in sharing DaDong's thoughts and insights in his collection of bilingual prose "A Dish A Day", which Collector's Edition is soon to be released.

不仅是厨师、经营者，更是作家

As Writer other than Chef-Entrepreneur

做厨师工作做了40年，肯定会有一些心得。去国内外寻找食材、采风，了解其他人的特色菜、学习先进的技术设备。当然，我一直认为还是要去体会他们的创意思想，以及如何让这些传统的烹饪美食文化受到现代人的喜爱，符合现代消费者的社会心理。

而且走得多了，看得多了，自然会有表达的、想说的冲动。记得我们有一次从成都到林芝，走的318国道。国道318川藏线位列“世界十大最危险的公路”之首，在整个7天的行程里，我们遇到了大风、大雨、大雪、泥石流、塌方、断桥、冰封，但是当我们看到洁白的雪山与蓝天白云浑然一体，天地之间同一颜色。当你看到这样一幅壮阔的风景时，它一定能触动你的心灵。在那一刻，忽然心生一种“舍生忘死”的感觉，一定要把那个瞬间拍下来。我们一步一步往山上走，当时已经海拔5000多米，人处于一种缺氧的状态，脑袋胀疼，呼吸都很困难。因此这个时刻深深地镶嵌在我的心里，每每想起来，都觉得是人生的一种经历。而这个经历如果不记录下来，不收藏起来，一定是一种莫大的遗憾。

在我的生涯中，像这样的际遇、经历很多，既有唯美的体验，也遇到人生的挫折，也见识过世间的丑陋，这是多么丰富多彩的一种人生经历。我觉得不光是我，凡是经历过的人，虽然具体细节各不相同，但是殊途同归，这就是所谓的人生。

Within my 40 years as chef, I have been traveling across regions and continents the world over, discovering indigenous ingredients; learning diverse cuisines and culinary cultures; picking chefs' minds; and adopting new techniques and advanced technology in food preparations. For me, it is very important to understand the different forms and concepts of gastronomy other than our own, and as well share such understanding with others so that they may also be benefitted. In fact this should be the attitude and outlook of a harmonious, progressive society that transcends borders and cultural differences.

By travelling, one makes a lot of exciting discoveries, which in turn arouse the urge to share. I recall the time when we took the 318 National Highway from Chengdu to Linzhi. This route, linking Sichuan and Tibet, ranks first among the top 10 most hazardous highways in the world. During the entire 7-day trip, we encountered strong winds, stormy rains, blizzards, landslides, broken bridges, blockading mud and ice. But instead of being succumbed by fear and frustration, we gazed at the scenic snow-capped mountains, picturesque white clouds and the clear blue sky. Such immense beauty of nature touched my soul. The ambivalent feel of facing death while treasuring life suddenly dawned on me to capture the emotional moment in photography. Proceed we did, climbing high mountain step by step reaching an 5,000 meters above sea level. I felt my head swollen and painful; for we were all in a state of hypoxia, struggling to catch our breaths. Such rare experience is worth recording and celebrating in life.

In my career, I have had many similar experiences, some beautiful and others awful, yet they come together as the magical rainbow of life! I believe most, if not all of us feel the same way too. While our routes, with all their twists and turns may vary, all roads lead to Rome, so to speak. And, these are what make life worth writing and sharing.

我想表达的

What My Prose Aims to Convey

人生一定是积极的、向上的。无论是像我们这样的普通老百姓，还是所谓的“高贵人士”也好，其实人生的意义，就是两个字——平凡。人生匆匆，不过百年。平凡一定有平凡的快乐，尊贵一定有尊贵的高度。所谓荣华富贵，大家都有不同的解读。我想从厨师的角度去看待百态人生，希望大家能从中看到人的价值。人的价值就是让自己过得充实、快乐，让人生是积极的、向上的，不论是平凡的人生，还是尊贵的人生，都莫过于此。

Whether being part of the elites or commoners, life ought to be lifting and positive; for it is swift and short. As a matter of fact, life would be richer and fuller for the ordinary, being simple and easy to please, while the elites on high are laden with burdnes and expectations. Prosperity and wealth are but personal perceptions. As for me, I see it from the point of view as a chef, and hope that others may also find life's value where it is at. After all, it is up to every human being to embrace a positive and lifting attitude towards life, and by so doing find it worthwhile. This sums up what I wish to convey in my simple daily prose in more ways than one.

完成《一日一菜》过程中的挑战

Challenges of Publishing Collector's Edition of "A Dish A Day"

《一日一菜》差不多写了近600篇，目前已经停笔。写这个，我曾经有很多的焦虑。比如说，今天写完，明天还要写。明天写完，后天还要继续。想想就觉得这是一个巨大的工程。尤其是连续一天一篇地写，这对我来说的确很难。但是就在这个坚持不懈的写作中，我克服了这个困难。连续写作的500多天对我的人生来说，是很有意义的一件事。另外一个困难，就是写作的素材是不是足够，因为每天一定要写不一样的食材。

但是要说最大的挑战，还是体裁，你用什么样的文法、体裁去表达。如果10篇、100篇、1000篇都是同一个体裁，会让读者产生一种疲劳感，无法很通畅地看下去。大家爱看，这才是我所期盼的。要解决这个问题，必须多读、多积累，要博古通今，成为知识的宝库。只有当你的知识储备量足够大的时候，你才能下笔有神，笔下生花，不断有妙句、金句，有趣的故事涌现出来。我希望用最通俗、最简单的语言，或者说是一种口语，形成自己个性化的语言风格，让大家一直喜欢看。

I have written nearly 600 proses for "A Dish a Day" collection, and now I come to a pose. Prior to writing, I was filled with anxiety since completing a dish a day would take a lot time and efforts. But, without relent I was able to devote 500 days continually documenting each and every meaningful moment in my life. Among the bigger challenges was to avoid repeating what I have already written, as with the thoughts and ingredients I had touched.

Yet, the biggest challenge among them are the genres and scenarios involved; for repeating them would be a bore for readers to follow through. To avoid monotomy, I had to read more, and the more I read the more frontiers are opened for the needed nuances and dynamics to my prose. The knowledge and insights accumulated along the way allow expressions to become more lucid and eloquent. Such is the art of conveying thoughts via simple and understandable language, coupled with one's own style to better connect and inspire.

从文学追求中获得的个人奖励

Personal Rewards in Literary Pursuit

在整个写作过程中，如果有某种奖励的话，那就是随着写作的进行，我也在慢慢提高。这种提高不仅是写作技巧和文笔流畅度的提高，也是知识的慢慢积累和丰富。我觉得这种奖励，是让我觉得心里更纯洁了一些。我们当然期待自己成为高尚的人，但是我个人觉得人未必非要高尚；我们也希望自己是一个纯粹的人，不过我也觉得人其实也未必要纯粹，而且我特别认为，不要脱离低级趣味，才是人生最大的赢家。

Writing is not an end in itself, but a process by which the writer finds joy of conveying and sharing. I must say, I am getting my touch with the voluminous write-ups I am doing. The satisfaction I get is not the mere improvements of skills and fluency, but more for the wealth of knowledge I accumulate along the way. And the more I write, my insights are delivered with more clarity. Needless to say, all writers aim at becoming famous and popular. But for me, when the intensions are pure, happiness and personal satisfaction follow. Here lies the essence of being a writer.

将这本书翻译英文

Reason for Bilingual Prose

我一直认为东西方文化交流的障碍是语言。每个国家都自己的文化体系，那么不同的语言之间如果能够理解和尊重对方，无非是能够流畅的沟通。中国的美食独具特色，而且我认为，美食是一种有别于语言，且能够直击人们心灵和灵魂的有效交流工具。因此，我特别希望能够把我写的中国饮食文化里的风土人情，通过翻译成英语，让不同语言的人感受到中国古老文化里蕴含的世间百态、老百姓的智慧与勤劳，以及我们和谐的生活。如果他们能够通过大董的文字、精准的翻译表达，对中国的传统饮食文化和百姓生活感兴趣，能够感同身受的话，我觉得这将是一件非常有意义的事情。

I believe that the differences in languages and dialects are the greatest barrier to cultural exchange and understanding. I also believe that food is universal and serves as the medium for mutual appreciation; for food, like art, binds people's hearts and souls. Chinese food culture is rich and unique. And, I believe my exposition into Chinese cuisine would break barriers for people to uncover the underlying essence of harmony, as with blending and pairing flavors. Therefor, should my works be eloquently translated to a language that the world could understand, it would really mean a lot to me.

人间有味是清欢

Singularity of Multiplicity

食材、烹饪、人文、传统等等，这些都是一个个的标签，实际上都是由美食串联起来的。以美食为主线，牵附了人文、传统、风土、价值观等等。实际来说，美食这条主线达到了一种美好，而终点也是一种美好。

《一日一菜》没有鸿篇巨制，都是日常家庭琐事，是一草一木，一霜一雪，是在最寻常的事物中发现美好。我还是最想用苏东坡的词来表达，“人间有味是清欢”。清是一种清雅、清淡、清气，是一种心灵的洒脱，是一种心境的超然。这里文字看似如拉家常一般，但是每个人读到这些文章都会觉得，自己也置身其中，并且会心一笑。字里行间写的就是大家的生活，是每个人捕捉到的美好。

Ingredients, cultures, traditions, the Humanities, and gastronomy are but terminologies, yet they are all connected to food. The singularity of food is actually the summation of everything, including terroirs, peoples, norms, lifestyles, values, and cultures, you name it. A Dish A Day aims at manifesting the multi-faceted beauty of life in unison with food.

My works are an exposé into the activities of daily lives, casually and sporadically presented rather than a single master piece. My proses aim to unfold beauty in various dimensions common to life's daily encounters. For this, allow me to quote the passage by poet laureate Su Dongpo: "It is the little things that make up the wonderful flavors of life"; as with purity and lightness, freshness and freedom that surround us, allowing our spirit to take flight. Terms used in Su's passages are but common and easy to understand. Yet, in between lines are imbedded with sensibility to lift readers' spirits and unfold the beauty of life within.